Bosnia and Herzegovina

Like Germany, it’s fogged over by a past that you can wallow in, dark night of the human soul kind of wallowing, however, also like Germany, Bosnia and Herzegovina is so much more than its dissension and violence. Waterfalls are everywhere, as are craggy mountains, charming bridges over turquoise waters, and stone fortresses winding high over medieval villages. The trails near the highest peak, Mount Maglić, provide breathtaking views, and there are paths through rainforests. The sharpened pencils of Mosque minarets poke up from its cities and towns where there are endless rows of cafés and people eat at home, but go out for thick Bosnian coffee served from copper decanters on metal trays. 

But wait. Before you’re tempted to completely dismiss the war torn history, keep it in mind long enough that you remember what areas you need to hire a guide rather than go on your own so that you avoid stumbling into the remaining landmines. 

In Sarajevo, you hear the mixing of cultures in the polyphony of mosque calls to prayer and the chiming of cathedral bells. Built into the pedestrian street in the heart of the city, there’s a sign at your feet with cardinal points indicating East and West: Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures. So proud of their cultural melting pot, Bosniak Muslims, Croatian Roman Catholics, Serbian Orthodox Christians, and Jewish people lived together in peace for years. Was this pride somehow their downfall? Was it necessary for a force of cosmic pot stirring to come in such a brutal way and remind the entire world that no, it really wasn’t possible for people who believe different ways to live in harmony together? 

The irony is that the Bosniaks, Serbs and Croats who make up the primary population of Bosnia and Herzegovina all come from the same ethnicity. Their differences are religious and political. The fragile peace they maintain with a thread was negotiated with the assistance of United States presidents Jimmy Carter and Bill Clinton and led to the creation of a complex, constantly rotating, three president system. Each group, Bosniak, Serb and Croat, has an elected president who represents the country for a period of months and then the next group has its turn. 

Bosnia and Herzegovina, perhaps more than any country in the world, is a reminder of the fragility and insanity of humans. Why? is its biggest question. Why assassinate the archduke of Austria-Hungary and his wife? Was it the only way to be heard when distant superpowers were making decisions about a country without the input of the people who actually live there? Why did the entire world jump into the fight like a bar scene waiting to happen sparked by a random first punch? Why, centuries later, was it necessary to mercilessly massacre, rape, and torture thousands who believe differently about not just religion, but the future course of the country? In the end, what good did any of this do? 

Can cultures meet? Certainly there are many examples of this happening around the world. I delight in thinking about the Scottish man who travelled to Alaska and unwittingly started the Athabascan Fiddling tradition that’s now considered part of Native Alaskan culture. And what about that Welsh town in Argentina and the Plattdeutsch-speaking Mennonites of Belize? We affect each other. It happens. We can’t help it. But can we accept it? Can we allow one another to think and believe differently without taking it personally, without feeling threatened by a different vision of the future for the country? 

Sarajevo was under siege by Serbs for 1,425 days. People went without electricity, water, food, and went about their day with constant awareness that at any moment they might be snipered or bombed down and that threat could come from anywhere. During the early days of the siege, cellist Vedran Smailović played Albinoni’s Adagio in G Minor in the rubble of the National Library for twenty-two days, each day representing one of the twenty-two people killed by a mortar round in a Sarajevo marketplace. 

Music is a unifying force, a universal language, that bridges cultures. Music is the voice for all of the things we hold in common. What if the world were full of musicians? Would that make a difference? Yet there are efforts to take music out of schools. Yet there is a fallacious belief that you are or are not born a musician instead of the truth that any of us can be musicians and, as Shinichi Suzuki deeply believed, talent is educated. Perhaps it is impossible to completely eradicate hatred and ignorant selfishness, but would the world move in the direction of that valiant aim if everyone was a musician? What if every child was taught to make music, played and sang with others? Not a question of whether or not you would study music, but in what ways, what instruments, what styles. What if the parks were full of orchestras and jazz bands and choirs? All the time. With everyone looking for ways to make music for others, what kind of new world might this be? It’s proven that musical training builds mathematic ability, a fact we tend to dismiss in the actual structuring of education for young people, at least in the United States. And while it is good to foster ability in mathematics, perhaps we forget the more important concept of fostering the soul. 

One of the predominant styles of music in Bosnia and Herzegovina is a passionate style of singing about love and longing with Slavic, Ottoman, and European influences called Sevdah, or Sevdalinka.
To learn more about Sevdah, select Sevdah and Sevdalinka.
Bosnia Folk Music Sevdah includes some interesting commentary about the human need to categorize people and how music can help escape such limiting boxes.
To listen to Sevdah singers, select Zdravko Čolić – Jedna zima sa Kristinom and Hanka Paldum – Ja te pjesmom zovem. 
Singer Željko Samardžić was hit by a stray bullet during the Bosnian War and managed to escape to Belgrade, Serbia. 
For a current popular song with video showing a town and the Bosnian coffee tradition, select Emina Tufo – Roman.
Some common instruments are the zuran (a type of oboe), šargija (a type of lute), saz (another type of lute), diple (droneless bagpipe), wooden flute, gusle (a one-stringed, bowed instrument), and the accordian.
For some Bosnian Folk Music, select Bosnia and Herzegovina Music and Images and Bosnian Folk.
Folk music in Bosnia and Herzegovina includes the shouted, dissonant songs of the shepherds called Gagna.
The folk, circle dance is called Kolo.

Matija Divković, a Bosnian Franciscan monk born in Jelaške in 1563, is considered to be the founder of modern literature in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Ivo Andrić, author of The Bridge on the Drina, won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1961. Born in Travnik when it was Austria-Hungary to Catholic Croat parents, as a young man Andrić was arrested for suspected association with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, although he was in Kraków at the time. Later, Andrić was an ambassador to Germany for Yugoslavia. Ultimately, he associated himself more with Serbia than Bosnia, although one of his famous quotes highlights his home country: “If God created the world anywhere, then he created it in Stolac.” The following passage is from page 233 of The Bridge on the Drina as translated by Lovette F. Edwards:

“Every human generation has its own illusions with regard to civilization: some believe that they are taking part in its upsurge, others that they are witnesses of its extinction. In fact, it always both flames up and smoulders and is extinguished, according to the place and the angle of view.”

Meša Selimović, known for his novel Death and the Dervish, was born to a Muslim family in Tuzla, yet also preferred to identity as a Serb, studying in Belgrade and living most of his life in that region.

Musa Ćazim Ćatić is a poet famous enough to have his face on the paper money of the country. His tomb can be visited in Tešanj.

To read more, select A New Generation of Writers in Bosnia and Herzegovina Narratives Life Beyond War.

Bosnian Coffee is an important part of the culture. Strong, thick, served in engraved traditional copper decanters that look like you’re pouring a fine molten ore, there is a tiny bowl of sugar cubes on the metal tray and it is recommended that you first take a cube, dip it, and alternate nibbling the sugar with sipping the coffee. For more information, select The Art of Bosnian Coffee and The complicated culture of Bosnian coffee. 

A few food and beverages:
cevapi = a pita filled with cream and sausage is the national dish of Bosnia and Herzegovina
burek = a flaky pastry with meat, cheese, and spinach is a beloved food
buregdzinica = bakery specializing in burek
rakija = a fruit brandy made with plums or grapes

To read more about food in Bosnia and Herzegovina, select The 21 Best Dishes to Eat in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Top 10 Most Popular Bosnian and Herzegovinian Dishes.

A Whirlwind Trip Through Bosnia from North to South:
Bihać is a town on the Una River in the northwest with an Ottoman mosque that was a church built in 1266. Bihać is near Ostrožac Fortress, a Gothic castle dating from the 13^th century, and Nacionalni park Una (Una National Park). Nacionalni park Una has beautiful waterfalls.
Prijedor is a city in the northern part of the Republika Srpska on the Sana River.
Banja Luka, on the Vrbas River, is the second largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina and the capital of the Republika Srpska region. Vrbas means “willow” and the river is lined with willow trees. 
Banja Luka has a beautiful golden Orthodox Church, a fortress overlooking the Vrbas, and Krupa Waterfalls about 26 kilometers south of the city.
Brčko District (pronounced “Britchko”) is an autonomous region on the Sava River on the northeast border with Croatia. 
Gradačac, where the heroic Dragon of Bosnia came from, has a beautiful Old Town, a fortress, and nearby lakes. 
Doboj is a city with a 14^th century fortress.
Tešanj has one of the largest fortresses in the country high in its hills, a 17^th century clock tower, and the tomb of a poet.
Srebrenik fortress, also known as Gradina castle, is about 36 kilometers northwest of Tuzla and the birthplace of the first Bosnian king, Tvrtko I. It is likely the oldest castle in the country. The name “Srebrenik” means “silver” and legend states that the queen who built it said she would make it shine like silver. 
Tuzla, in the eastern part of the country, is its third largest city with two universities.
Jajce, the city of falling water, has giant waterfalls right in the middle of town, medieval buildings, and small wooden huts standing on stilts that were built during the Austro-Hungarian Empire (1878-1918). High in the hills is a medieval fortress built in the 14^th century. Within the city, there are ruins of a temple to the Persian sun god Mithra from the 4^thcentury AD: Jajce Mithraem. 
Vlašić Mountain (1,943 meters) is in the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina and overlooks the town of Travnik. In addition to skiing, the area is famous for its pastures, cattle, and cheese.
Travnik, in the center of the country, has two clock towers, a colorful mosque, and a castle fortress. 
Zenica is a town in the heart of the country that faces pollution challenges. For more information, select Zenica Bosnia the steel town where even a breath can be a struggle.
Srebrenica, in the eastern part of the country, has a monument in remembrance of the Srebrenica Massacre, and also a salt mining industry and a spa. 
Visoko, northwest of Sarajevo, has been around since ancient times and is the place where the first king of Bosnia, Tvrtko I, was crowned.

Sarajevo, where the East meets West, can look like Vienna one minute and Istanbul the next. A mosque, synagogue, Catholic cathedral, and Orthodox church are right next to each other. The name “Sarajevo” means “saray” (palace/mansion) + “ova” (plain) = “plains of the palace.” Over half of Sarajevo was destroyed or damaged by shells and bombs during the Bosnian War. Two decades later, reminders remain, however, the city has returned to vibrancy and peace. The northern end of the Latin Bridge over Miljacka River is where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914. 
Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque built in 1532 provides one of the pencil-like spires over Sarajevo. Next door, the square Ottoman Clock Tower juts over the city. Not far, is the Sacred Heart Cathedral in addition to more mosques, cathedrals, Orthodox churches, and synagogues. 
Baščaršija is the old town in the heart of Sarajevo with a market dating back to the 1400s.
In the center of Baščaršija square is Sebilj, a wood and stone ornamental drinking fountain with a green domed roof built in 1891 that looks like a gazebo. According to legend, you will soon return to Sarajevo if you drink the water from Sebilj.
Vijećnica was the Sarajevo City Hall and became the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzogovina in 1949. It was bombed on August 25, 1992, destroying much of the building and irreplacable multicultural literature. The building was restored. 
The Tunnel of Hope is an 800 meter long, 1 meter wide, 1.6 meter high tunnel connecting two houses to link Sarajevan neighborhoods on either side of the airport. It was the only access to the outside world for the people of Sarajevo during the siege. Now, the portion of it closest to the Sarajevo Airport is a museum that tells the story of the Bosian War.
The National Museum of Bosnia & Herzegovina safeguards the Haggadah, a 600 year old Jewish manuscript.
Yellow Bastion (Zuta Tabija) and White Bastion (Bijela Tabija) are parts of the old wall fortress up in the hills where there are views of Sarajevo. Near the Bijela Tabija, the Park Prinčeva outdoor restaurant is famous for its views and food. Closer to the city center, Zuta Tabija overlooks the expanse of the Martyrs’ Memorial Cemetery in honor of those who were killed during the Bosnian War. Ilidza is a suburb of Sarajevo on the Bosna River with springs and a spa. 

Višegrad has an 11-arch Ottoman bridge over the Drina River, Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge, that was built in 1577 by Mimar Sinan, the chief architect for the Ottoman Empire who also built famous bridges in Istanbul. The bridge is a key character in Ivo Andrić’s novel, The Bridge Over the Drina.
Konjic is a beautiful town on the Neretva River. Tito’s Bunker is near Konjic. Taking 26 years to build, Tito intended the bunker as a safehouse for 350 members of the ruling class in case of nuclear attack. 
Lukomir is a little high elevation (4,904 feet) mountain village just east of Konjic.

Mostar is a charming town with stone streets that seem to meld into the stone buildings. Surrounded by mountains, Mostar is famous for its Old Bridge, Stari Most, a beautiful stone arch over the Neretva River. Built in the 16^th century as a crowning feat of Ottoman architecture, Stari Most was destroyed on November 9, 1993 during the Bosnian War. A replica was built in 2004 and stands today. The word mostari means “bridge keepers.” The Neretva River is one of the coldest in the world and also one of the most beautiful with an emerald green color. Neretva means “divine river.”
Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque, built in 1618 and virtually destroyed during the war, provides stunning views of Mostarfrom its minaret. 

Blagaj Tekija, built in 1520 near Mostar, is a Dervish monastery set into the base of a steep cliff at the source of the karstic Buna River. 
Medjugorje is a pilgrimage site for Catholics with apparitions of the Virgin Mary. 
Žitomislić Monastery, Serbian Orthodox, was built in 1566 on the Neretva River.
Stolac, on the Begrava River, is perhaps the oldest town in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Nobel Prize winning author Ivo Andrić wrote: “If God created the world anywhere, then he created it in Stolac.”
Badanj Cave near Stolac has rock carvings dating back to 12,000 or 16,000 BC. 
Daorson, a town built by the Illyrians on the site of a prehistoric fortress, may date back 7,000 years. Daorson was the capital of the Illyrian tribe called the Daorsi. Today, a wall from 400 BC and an Acropolis from 100 BC can be seen.
Radimlja Necropolis is a cemetary with stones from ancient Illyric times. The monumental medieval tombstones are called Stećci. One of the inscriptions on the headstones says, “You will be like I, and I can not be like you.” 
Počitelj is a beautiful town built into the hill along the Neretva River.
Kravica (Kravice) Falls, near the border with Croatia, have turquoise pools and a rope swing.
Livno has a protected area for wild horses.
Blidinje Nature Park is in the high mountain valleys of the Dinaric Alps with beautiful rock formations and lakes. 
The Neum corridor is the second shortest coastline for a country in the world at 12 miles. 
For more some history about the little coast, select How Croatia Got the Coastline Away From Bosnia.

Sutjeska National Park has stunning mountain and lake trails with a monument to the Battle of Sutjeska from World War II, waterfalls, and Bosnia and Herzegovina’s highest peak: Mount Maglić. There is also a rainforest with waterfalls. To find out more select, Europe’s last jungle revealed – Perućica Rainforest.
Bileća Lake, a manmade lake with natural beauty, is an archeological diver’s dream with underwater villages and a monastery. 
Trebinje, a southern city in the Republika Srpska near the boarder with Montenegro and not far from the Croatian coast, has beautiful craggy scenery, ancient fortresses, monasteries, and wineries.

For more information about Bosnia and Herzegovina:
How Bosnia’s Only Female Coppersmith Is Reinventing Tradition 
Bosnia and Herzegovina – the world’s most complicated system of government?
The President Who Wants to Break Up His Own Country
Despair Haunts Protest Anniversary in Bosnia’s Tuzla
What are the real reasons behind Bosnia’s migrant crisis?
Bosnia to Return Migrants to Bihac Despite Opposition
Bosnia and Herzegovina – Ethnic Discrimination a Key Barrier
The Most Tragic City in Europe – Sarajevo History
11 reasons to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina
10 reasons to visit Bosnia and Herzegovina
Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide
The 10 Most Beautiful Castles In Bosnia and Herzegovina